Making an undercoat for Camille is easy providing you follow a few simple steps and have your materials gathered. You will need lace edge, fabric, thread, and the ability to sew. To start you begin French stitching the seams and gather the seams at the shoulder so that it meets the front and back section of the bodice. Press after you cut the seams that overlap the armholes. Next cut 10-mm and about 2/5 inches of the thin edges of your lace, cutting it into dual nine 1/2-inch lengths. One length should be cut around 12 inches lengthwise.

Crisscross your stitches and add 12 inches of length to your lace at the inner region of the untreated edges of your collar. Sew the right side collectively and crisscross, stitching the lace to join with your fabric so that it meets the collar. Perform the same actions to finish around the armholes. Press the middle of the back at the fold lines until it forms a facing at the back. Stitch in a straight line down the length of your row without stitching the lace near the crown face.

The side seams should connect. Next, use fabric glue to attach the free thread at the seams of your armhole. Press the upper sections of the dress and cut your insertion lace about 2 1/2 yards. Spray craft starch to the area and press. Use your inclusion lace, placing it 1/4 inch onto the surface stitching row at the skirt bottom. Now, stitch a straight line so that it joins with the crown of your lace. Press the lace away from the left side of your fabric. Cross-stitch the over crown of your lace without touching the fabric, stitching only into the lace. Cut left over and press. Cut 2 1/4 yards of inclusion lace, starch and then press before placing it over a stitch line from the base line of your inclusion. First, create an outer stitch line and then press, and stitch another row, press. On the left side, cut your fabric down at the center of your stitch rows. Press your fabric on each end so that it does not touch the lace.

Cross-stitch the base line of your lace. Press, and stitch a couple of lines while collecting your stitches near the waistline. The side seams should connect, as well as the back region. Now you can pin your skirt so that it attaches to the both rights of your bodice. Starting at the middle rear, pin the yokes back and fold your seams permitting the rear back and back room.

The bodice should fit your fabric. Pull it up, collect evenly, and continue to stitch to fitting. Cut the seams and check your zigzags for evenness. Before adding, the edges of your lace to the inclusion make sure that the garment fits your doll. Test it by trying it on her.

Now trim 3 4/5 yards of the 3/4-inch edges of your lace. Starch, press, and pull the thread to the crown and at the end and edges of your lace. Collect the lace, gathering it at the bottom and bundle it so that it connects to the inclusion lace. Finish with a crisscross stitch. Next, complete the edges at the rear seams. Thread the fabric and lace so that it marks your pattern, and pressing once, you make the inclusion even with your stitches. Now you can create buttonholes.

You will need to mark the area where you want to add buttons. Use fabric glue along the buttonholes and pin. Now you can stitch your buttons.

As we mentioned in the previous works, you can learn a few helpful tips in stitching seams. In addition, you can learn tips in seam allowances, as well as appliqué. Appliqué is the progression of using fabric or pieces and sewing them onto fabric. You sow the shaped pieces of the fabric onto your groundwork to shape a pattern or design. The appliqué steps include the machine and hand sewn styles. In short, you can use the steps to work through hand-sewn quilts, or machine made. Don’t forget to learn more about needles, thimbles, thread, etc before you get started, so that you choose the best brands to complete your quilt.

You will need to stitch your pieces of fabric into the background. First, however you will need to prime the edges of your fabric pieces, or appliqué if you will. Turn the 1/4-inch “seam allowance” under the appliqué and stitch so that it meets with your backdrop. If you want to create a quilt in less time, try the “fusible webbing appliqué” style.

The style of appliqué we are discussing now is the simple design. You have advantages with this strategy, since the seams and stitches will not show on the top of your quilt. The appliqué” will hang in the back of the quilt as well, which creates a stunning design.

The key to making the appliqué is to learning turning steps to bring your seam allowances under your garment. You can use templates to create your patterns. You will need to start by cutting your appliqué shape out and shaping it side by side the lines you have marked. If you haven’t learn how to cut and mark visit your library, or go online to find helpful tips. You will need to cut 1/4 inch per shape. If you template has a solid row at the outer lines and a dash within the lines, then you are working in harmony with your template and quilt.

Once you cut, the shapes turn the seam allowance under. You can do this by turning and basting, using glue stick, or freezing your paper. If your seam allowances are not flat at the curves, turn the seams in and around the curvatures to the upturned points.

Once you finish turn the seams or shapes at the corner, turning it up so that it meets the first point. Turn your seam allowances up and you are finished. It doesn’t matter which side you turn the last seams up.

How to the turning and basting appliqué works:

This is one of the protracted tactics used in quilting. However, you can advance. You want to start by tracing your appliqué, cut it to shape, and work around the seam allowances, turning the seams to the left side. You may need to clip the upturned points and the curvatures. Use your hand to bast the folds. You will need needle and thread, pulling the thread through the needle and stitch 1/8 inch of your shape. Work your stitch to the folds at the edges. You will need to finish by stitching the background so that it meets your appliqué. Now, remove your thread and you are prepared to start the appliqué process.

Once you start the appliqué, you can move to the freezing paper style. This style makes room for easy quilting. The finishing touches will even and smooth out, making you are grand quilt.

Freezing paper in quilters’ term is “Freezer paper.” You know the type of paper you purchase at your local grocery, and use to store your meet in the freezer. You can also use other types of paper, such as the English.

Patches can make up a fashionable, yet old-style quilt that will last for a long time to come. To create patchwork you will need fabric. You merely cut the pieces of your fabric to form patches and design, stitching in simple numerical lines. If you are creating the traditional patchwork, you will need fabrics, including lengthy stripes, squares, curved shapes, and rectangles. You can leave out the shapes that curve if you don’t want to go through the steps of creating a complex quilt.

Crafters often use patches to create quilts with many parts, such as the quilts that resemble the Picasso arts, or the basic quilts. Once you gather your patches, you will need to form blocks of your fabric. The blocks in crafter terms include the “corn and beans,” motifs, “turkey tracks, maple leaf,” and so on. One of the more attractive quilts is the “Robbing Peter to Pay Paul” blocks. Regardless, you will need blocks to finish your quilt.

To start you will need to select your block scheme. You have the choice of the 4-patch scheme, or the 9-patch. The patch block schemes make up grids, which fill in various simple lines in numbers and shapes. The 4-patch is one of the common patterns used to make traditional quilts. The 9-patch is also used, yet other styles are made up on different geometric grids.

The 4-patch:

The 4-patch is 4-squares factored into a numerical grid. For instance, you can picture a box, draw a cross inside, and count 1-4 to achieve the 4-block scheme. To continue to the 4-patch scheme you would need to add squares, stripes, etc.

The overall notion behind the 4-patch scheme is that you can use a variety of patches to create a multi-color quilt, yet you must lay out your block foundation first.

Now if you want to use the 9-patch scheme you would create nine squares in your grid and either leave them together or break them into parts. Still, you must leave the 9-patch structure.

For instance, if you were to take a piece of craft paper, rather graphing paper and draw per inch, four squares, eight squares, and then another ten, you would have your foundation to start your patchwork. To make up your designs however, you would need to add shapes to your grids.

Once you design your craft on graphing paper, you can create a full-size block. You will need to cut your patches, as well as create templates however before you can start your quilt.

To start your quilt you will need to consider the style again. Do you want the 12, 14, 16, 18, or larger blocks? If you are new to making quilts, you may want to start with the lower block inches. However, you will need to learn how to make borders to complete the quilt.

Once you decide you will need to consider your schemes. If you are working the 4-patch scheme on blocks, around 4 inches then you will need to cut your patches 2 inches in squares. The higher the scheme, the more patch inch squares you would need. For instance, if you want to create a 12-block scheme, you would need twelve patches and cut in six-inch squares.

On the other hand, if you were using the 9-patch scheme, choosing the 12-inch blocks then you would need to cut your patches into 4-inch squares.

Now you can move to create your templates. Templates in crafter terms are patterns, which are cut from strong fabrics, or materials. You need the templates to create an easy squared quilt, otherwise prepare to battle.

Smocks are fun; rather making the bodice of a porcelain dress is an adventure that leads to joy. To get started however you will need to consider design.

How to choose design your smock:

In the first row, you will need to knit stitch your design into the 799 DMC. The stitching process is the cable stitches, which you knit to produce patterns that resemble twisted ropes.

The second one and a quarter line requires the baby waves stitched over another 1/2 line followed by another 1 3/4 baby waves over another 1/2 line, which should form the shape of a diamond with an additional line at 1 1/4. The following line should be two 1/2-baby waves over another 1/2 line and continue to the next line at three 1/4-baby waves moving to the other side at 1/2 line into another diamond shape and a line at 2 3/4. Finish with a 4-line cable stitch.

Next, you will collect the top of your dress to the seams of the shoulder at the back and front yokes and complete the seams by crisscross stitching and pressing the bodice at the back and on the folded line. If you want easy attachment of your pattern to the collar, you will need to trim the piping. Next, begin sewing your piping to the other side of the collars and a the untreated edges.

TIP: Use greaseproof paper and place it beneath the collars to continue stitching with ease.

Once the piping and the collars are collected at the area of your facing collar, attach side by side to the right and use stitch pips to finish the following lines. Next, cut the seams and then trim around the collars. Press after you turn your seams to the right. You want to mark the front center yoke and make a line, marking it so that it aligns with the back of your bodice. Pin your collars so that it is placed with the neck and join with the front center. Once you place your area, begin sewing about the garment’s edge and around the neck toward the center of the back whilst leaving the facing liberal.

Continue:

Bring the facing on to the other side and join it so that it collects with the seams of the shoulders and the front center. Now stitch about the garment’s edge and around the neck the same as you did on the prior stitch. Cut, and press after you turn your garment on the right angle. Now, stitch pip so as to, cross the right region and the yoke at the front on your seam lines. The facing should be liberal. The front smock area is now ready for you to complete.

To complete the smock you will need materials. You will need 28 inches of light tone and plain-woven soft, smooth fabric made up of linen or cotton. You will need to choose a small pip, a few long, narrow buttons, size 50 cotton thread broder, embroidery thread, and so on. Once you have your materials make your pattern and cut two frontal yokes, dual fold yokes for the back, sleeves, bands, collars, (4) rear waistline, band for leg, and 1 front and back segment for pant fold. Next, use starch and spray your f

abric. To attach your pips use the zipper or pip foot.

You will need to finish your smock starting with your plate, front smock section and fitting the yoke at the front. Once the yoke is fitted you can join yokes and keep the pips near the first row, you will need to knit stitch your design into the 799 DMC at this time and finish your design.

Threads are important when crafting quilts. You will need certain threads that match your fabric, as well as suitable supplies and needles. Yet, when you consider matching threads to your fabric, you will also need to consider a few other details.

Types of threads:

You have choices of thread, including rayon, buttonhole-twists, silk, all-purpose, cotton, nylon wool, monofilament, metallic, exceptionally fine, mercerized cotton and so on. To consider threads, first you must ask if you are intending to create your quilt by hand, or machine? Do you prefer to darn or to bast?

If you are sewing fabric piece onto fabric, using shaped pieces to form your pattern, you may want to choose the monofilament nylon thread. On the other hand, if you are sewing your fabric by hand, sewing the pieces to form a pattern then the silky threads, or the all-purpose threads may be a good option.

If you are hand crafting you may want to consider other threads than the all-purpose. For instance, you may get more from the threads with polyester cores and wrapped in cotton. The polished 100$ finished cotton is also available. If you use the thread with finished polish, it will reduce wearing if you are sewing by hand. The thread will help you stitch smoothly without worrying about tangles, creases, etc.

TIP: Buy beeswax cake to minimize tangles.

Once you finish choosing your threads, you will need to create a craft basket. The basket will include thimbles, scissors both for cutting paper and fabric, (a few pairs) threader, hand needles, pencils, tailor chalk, seam ripper, and a measuring device. You will also need straight quilter pins, pincushion, glue stick, and a few safety pins. (Large)

Once you gather your basket, you may want to add supplies, such as rotary cutters, iron/board, masking tape, press cloth, spray bottle, graphing/tracing paper, hoops and frames, colored pencils, plastic sheet, ruler, cutting mat, and so on. You may even want to toss in a few band-aids to cover those pokes and sticks you will get from hand sewing your quilt.

When you purchase your needles choose the “household assortment” kits to sum up your sewing needs. Otherwise, needle sizes are opposite, i.e. if you purchase the larger numbers, you get a smaller needle.

If you are hand, sewing you may want to consider “sharp” needles. The needles make it easy to stitch through heavy-duty material. In stores you might look for sharps, or “household needles.” To shorten your field trip on the mind tangler, just purchase a couple of 8’s and 9’s, as well as the variety packages. The needles with slotted eyes are called the “easy-threader,” which you can use also if you have problems using other needles.

You will need the seam ripper to correct your mistakes. The rippers will cut your thread, yet you should practice before you use them on the actual quilt, especially if you are new at making quilts.

You will need markers as well as a ruler to measure seams, patterns, fabric, etc. The needle threader will make it easy to thread. Remember the tips of some needles are small, making it difficult to get the thread pulled through the eye. Thimbles are designed to reduce the need for band-aids. You will need to test a few thimbles to fit them to your fingers.

In all, each item in your basket will help you complete your quilt. If you are new at quilting, visit your library, or go online to learn more steps to help you create a fashionable design, or a traditional style if you choose.

No you are not going to craft a quilt with freezer paper, unless you know something I don’t, but you are going to use freezer paper to perform the steps in basic appliqué. The process is simple, and makes quilting easy.

How to freeze your paper:

Appliqué is the process of taking fabric pieces and sewing it onto prime fabric, which the shaped pieces are sewn onto a foundation to form patterns and designs. To start with, the steps in freezer paper cut your appliqué out and leave seam allowances. Next, use graph paper or similar products to trace on your wax-free paper, tracing the patterns of your appliqué. Do not trace seam allowances. Now, cut out your patterns and center the shapes on your paper so that it is on the left side. Place the pattern on to your waxy outside layer and bring it to the fabric. You will need to press (NOT IRON) your fabric, as well as the freezer paper. Press the paper so that it is on the fabric of your appliqué. The wax will melt. Once you see the results, cut the curvatures and the points of your appliqué. Use needle and thread that matches your design and run a stitch about the allowances of your seams. Slightly pull your thread to collect with the allowances about your appliqué shape. Make a knot in your thread at one end, and collect your stitches. With the freezer paper inside still, use your iron and press your appliqué.

You can also prepare to work the appliquéd style by using glue sticks. Ultimately, you can sew by hand to form the appliqué. In addition, you can use your machine to create a pattern of appliqué. It’s your choice.

To use the glue stick method, you perform the same actions, as you would in the freezer paper, only you use copier paper. You can use paper that you use in your printer to complete your steps also. Use your glue stick and fasten the seams. Leave out the wax coating and perform the same steps as you did in the freezer. On the backside of your paper, and at the middle, add a bit of glue. Press on the left side and turn your seam under. Around the shape of your paper, add another row of glue. Add the glue in a row down the shape of your edges. You want to glue the seam allowances to lock them in and to start you appliqué.

Once you complete the steps, you can start stitching the pieces of fabric into your backdrop fabric.

If you choose to hand stitch, start with arranging your appliqué, preparing it to fit the background. You will need pins to hold it in place, and use basting steps or else the glue stick to hold them in tact. Perform your actions moving front and then to the back, and appliqué the pieces that lie beneath the other. Overlap pieces should also be appliqué.

Next, get your needle and thread together, matching the thread with your initial appliqué. Stitch in a ladder motion, or else a tacking motion about the appliqué edges. Use glue to create 3/4-inch appliqué shapes around the beginning tip, or point. You can complete your stitching, once you remove the glue.

In addition to the hand appliqué, you can also use the blind-stitch method, or the machine method to create your quilt. Another option is the zigzag method, or the fusible machine method. Various other methods are optional as well. To learn more about quilting visit your local library.

Doll dresses are fun to make. First, however you must learn the rules for beginners to make quality designs. To start you will need to consider fabric. Some people like multi-colored clothing, however the clothes must harmonize to deliver quality dresses.

To make sure that you accomplish quality doll dresses, you will need the right equipment and tools. You will need a sewing machine, cleansers, universal needles, including stretch needles, pins, olfaa panel, and a rotary or gyratory cutter. You will also need hand-sew needles, dressmaker scissors, sewing scissors, fabric glue and pen, greaseproof paper for tracing, pencil, measuring tape, lace, ribbons, fasteners, elastic, paper scissors, etc.

Before you get started, you will need to clean your sewing machine. Use “Dust Away,” to spray your machine near the bobbin region. You will also need to clean the bar where the needles are installed, as well as the “tension” discs at the top. Once you clear the machine of dust, use a drop of oil.

Now you are prepared to make doll dresses. Before I forget, make sure you have thread, specifically DMC broder if you intend to make French dresses.

How to trim:

You can use the pin tuck method to trim your doll dress. You will need twin needles, and a foot that is designed for pin tucking. Set up your machine. The right needle should be clockwise while the left counterclockwise. At the “tension” discs, you should have the left needle threaded on the same side, and the right needle threaded on the right thread. To keep your dresses fresh, you can use starch to spray your dress prior to pin tucking.

How to pin tuck skirts:

When pin tucking skirts make sure you leave some space.

How to pin tuck sleeves and/or bodice:

Take a square of your fabric and pin tuck it. You can cut out the upper section of the dress and/or sleeves after. Keep in mind when you start pin tucking for sleeves and bodice, the fabric size is modified, or reduced.

If you are not familiar with pin tucks, you can tuck your doll dress. To tuck you merely consider the size and width of your garment. To start you press down, pressing the folded center. Along the fold and edge of your fabric, stitch the width precisely. As long as you stay consistent within your stitching lines, you will do fine. You should always start sewing at the grain after pulling a single thread.

After you complete your dress, or near the finish, you may want to consider bows, tassels, smock, or hand sewn objects. Hand embroidering is ideally used in finishing. Use a range of DMC embroidery to make finish your dress.

Smocking is the added finishing whereas you use patterns to complete your dress. Silk ribbons, satin single and double ribbons make up a great pinafore, or back dressing.

Tassels are easy to make, yet you will, need crochet threads and/or embroidery thread to complete your mission. You will also need cardboard in which you will need to cut out a part a length longer than your tassel. Use your thread, wound it around the cut part, and continue until you have achieved the thickness you desire. At one end of the part, use the same thread and channel it through the thickness. Next, tie the thread so that it knots and at the opposite end of your part, cut. Do not cut your thread. Now you are ready to make your tassel.

To finish, at the knotted region, convey your thread so that it meets with your tassel. Next, wound another part of thread about the finish of your tassel a few times. Knot the area so that it is taut. At the finish of your tassel, skid the thread in to fasten your finished work. If the finish necessitate cutting to make sure it is constant, do so now.

Once you select your patterns, blocks, templates, etc, you will need to prepare your fabric. You will need to consider how to organize your blocks, once you gather the necessary amount needed to complete your project. You want to consider your borders as well.

You will need graph paper, since you will need to sketch in order to determine how many blocks you will need to complete your quilt. To get started you will also need to decide the size of quilt you want to create and then you can consider settings.

To set your blocks, or organize the blocks you can consider borders, sashing, and cornerstones. The diagonal settings are another style you can consider, as well as the straight set.

Sashing works in the same way as the straight sets, i.e. you merely block your settings against the other and in an organized line. After you will run horizontal and vertical lines, which makes up your 9-patch scheme. The blocks in this instance are interacting with the stitches in three lines and with only three blocks. Use the “block-to-block” steps as listed above to continue. To create a visual, think of a box, or frame with nine rows across and nine rows down in a framed grid. Now add star-shapes, creating nine stars in three rows across your grid. If you can visualize the grid, you can get an ideal how the slash and straight setting works.

Next, add narrow stripes at the corners and around your row of boxes. If you can visualize, you have created a grid of lattice and/or slash. The pattern is designed to enhance your quilts overall outcome, yet you can add different effects to achieve your ultimate design. You can create an ordinary quilt from this grid, or you can crisscross the framework by interwoven your open-mesh frame, crisscrossing the stripes until you form a pattern. Some crafters use geometric patterns to arrange points.

How to set diagonal patterns:

If you want to create a diagonal pattern, or set you will need to organize, and add your blocks, placing them diagonally across your fabric, and on the points. Work a 45-angle into the scheme and work at the side. “On point” is a crafters term to state that the set blocks are on the points.

In the middle of the diagonal set, you will need to create triangles to make up the middle section of your pattern. You will need large and small triangles, which the larger batch will make up the center, while the smaller batch will fit the corners. Slashing terrazzo or strips is optional as well.

In addition to the slashing, straight, or diagonal, you can also choose to vertical set, or else the strip set. Crafters refer to the strip set as “Strippy.” Forming the Strippy is easy. You merely place your blocks perpendicularly in narrow pieces and divide the other narrow pieces, or strips.

The medallion is another set you can consider when crafting quilts. You will need to create middle equidistant from the other points. Next, you will need to focus on the points in the middle and surround them with various styles of blocks, slashing, or borders.

Now create your borders. To start your borders add your blocks to achieve the dimension of your borders at the side. You will need to factor in the slashing measurements, as well as the blocks. Example: Three blocks measuring 10-inch square, plus four strips at one inch wide equals 34 inches. Once you finish add a quarter or 1/4-inch seam and leave room to each side of your fabric. Now you can move to finish your borders.

Templates are patterns so to speak, only with templates you cut the materials you need from strong fabrics. Otherwise, if you were making patterns you would cut the templates from ordinary paper.

At what time you create templates, you are making your quilt making process easier. The surface patterns will flow consistently as well. You can use your created templates and trace along your patterns, instead of pinning graphing paper to your quilt material. You can purchase ready-made templates, however if you create your own you will save money. You can purchase transparent plastics at craft stores, or stores that carry supplies, such as craft, paper, pencils, etc. If you choose plastic, you will need to individually, trace your patterns. You will need allowance for your seams. After you create your patterns, cut your templates. The plastic templates are ideal for making larger quilts.

Straight grains make up woven textiles. The grain lines run comparably along the edges of the non-fraying edges in the materials. Across the “straight grain,” is another line known as the “cross grain.” Crafters use the term to define the lines, such as “Fabric on the grain.” You will need to eliminate the edges, by cutting it off.

The non-frayed edges are makes up the areas that have not been cut, especially around the label and the snug woven areas.

How to create basic templates:

Creating templates is as simple as tracing your footprints on paper. To create your templates you will need to choose plastic and/or paper. Once you make your choice you will need to trace your template to paper, add a few permitted seams, and then use adhesive to add your trace to a clip of hard copy, i.e. cardboard or the like and cutout your templates. Stop: before you cut your templates, first replicate copies and play with the patterns until you achieve your desired mark. Once you achieve your patterns add numbers and/or letters to mark your pattern. This will help you remember where each template goes. Next, you will cut your pattern parts out, using common scissors. Cut the outside areas only at the edges. You will need to create one template per piece to add to your quilt.

Next, trace your patterns, tracing the parts onto your plastic and/or paper. Space the parts once inch in all directions, and away from the other. Use a measuring device, such as a ruler to draw 1/4-inch line at the outer outline. On your templates, create a dot. You want the dots to meet two seams per count. The dots are important to mark your stitching areas.

Next, use your direction of textile thread lines (Grain line) and convey the arrows you have created from your model parts and relocate it to your template. You have made basic templates; however, there is a variety to choose from.

Tip: You can invent templates using software installed on your computer.

In addition to the basic templates, you can make window templates. The templates are ideal for those want to pierce by hand. You can also make templates for pre-prepared designs. Window templates can assist the beginners, since you will have a marked line to follow through when you begin stitching. The windows are easy to make, yet you must follow the “hand piercing: rules to complete your patterns. You can also add templates to your window, which may include emblems such as roses, bouquets, etc. Regardless the window, basic, or other types of templates can lead up to a block/border pattern, rather a fashionable quilt.

Many scrapbook starters would find it difficult to create a layout. If you are one of them, then you may have to read the following to get some easy ideas on what are the different types of scrapbook layouts you can use.

· Patterned paper layout

When using patterned paper as a scrapbook page layout, you should follow the following rules: Never use a paper with a pattern larger than the smallest photographed head; patterned papers are secondary to the photos so never give too much concern if you cannot find the right photos to go on the pattern; and, use plain paper over the pattern as a journal box.

· Nameplate layout

Use large letter tiles to make bold effect on the layout. You can use stamps to put your name on the page. Stencils would also be a great way to do this. Other methods such as using all sorts of embellishments to spell a name, embroidering the name on the page or using fonts like calligraphy would be great.

· Handprint layout

Whether you are an artist or not, handprinting the page would give you unique layout. Use acrylic paints, colored pens, watercolors, or crayons to do this.

To come out neat, you can concentrate the large handprints around the borders of the page. Smaller handprints can come in between.

· Newspaper layout

Create a page that would relatively look like a newspaper’s front page. This would work best if you intent to make a page that focuses on the significant event. Use an Old English font as a heading; somewhat similar to the heading of a newspaper. Then, use a large text for the headline. A Times New Roman font is for the story. Place a photo on the side or at the middle of the page.

· Rub-on Transfers layout

Using rub-on transfers is both easy and tricky. It is easy in the sense that all you have to do is to rub-on and you have an instant layout. It is tricky in the sense that you have to practice in order to achieve a perfect transfer. If you are using rub-on transfers for the first time, then you might as well start on a smooth surface. Once you get the hang of it, move on to the next level and use the transfer on surfaces such as metal, mesh, ribbon, and glass.

If you prefer to use rub-on transfers to these surfaces, make sure that they are adhere enough to make permanent contact. Some brands are stickier than the other.

· Z pattern layout

Arrange all the materials you have on a Z pattern. Meaning, the arrangements should start on the top left of the page and move on a Z pattern.

· Focal point layout

Use one photo as a focal point and move outwards. The focal point can be a large photo. This would give the viewer a starting point on where to begin looking. If you are using 3 or more photos, try to make some arrangements. You can use 3 different photo sizes arranged diagonally, with the focal point on the largest photo. You can also use one large photo with 2 small photos on each side. Or, you can use 3 photos of the same size and make arrangement to highlight a certain point.

· Aging paper layout

Weathering a paper is a popular technique on creating a layout. There are several ways to do this.

One is by damping the paper and ironing it to dry. This would create all sort of weathered look to the paper.

Another way of aging the paper is by rolling it into a ball to make it look wrinkled. Then, sand it with a finest grained sand paper you can find.

There are more scrapbook ideas you can use but these would be sufficient enough to finish your scrapbook.

If you want to make other types of layouts, you can combine 2 or more mentioned types of layouts to make one unique layout. The thing is, use your imagination and creativity to make a good layout and you can assure yourself that what you have made is truly yours.